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Harold McGee12 December 2020

The Science Of How Smells Work - Harold McGee - #257

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Insights & moments

The myth-busts, hot takes, explainers, and tools worth keeping.

Myth Buster· 2

Myth Buster40:00

Petrichor isn't the smell of stone, it's the smell of the place

Petrichor, the smell after rain on stone, has nothing to do with the stone itself. It's the sudden liberation of volatiles that have been collecting on the surface from the air over the preceding hot days, concentrated and released for you to inhale. Because it reflects whatever has been floating around locally, the smell differs completely between the Sahara, New York, and Japan. Chris jokingly proposes renaming it gaiachor.

  • Petrichor is released surface volatiles, not the stone's own smell
  • It's essentially the smell of that place, suddenly concentrated by rain
  • The scent varies entirely by location and what has accumulated locally
  • Sahara volatiles may accumulate for hundreds of years before release

it's really not anything to do with the stone, it's more the smell of that place suddenly concentrated and brought up for you to inhale

Harold McGee · 40:30
#petrichor#smell#rain#geosmin
Myth Buster42:00

Bloodhounds aren't better smellers than you, just better at ground-level

The idea that dogs vastly out-smell humans needs context. Bloodhounds excel at ground-level scents because they live next to the ground, but hand them wine to distinguish and they fail where trained humans succeed. We have fewer receptors but far more processing power, letting sommeliers pin a sip to a specific year, place, and producer. Humans can also detect some molecules at parts per billion.

  • Dogs are specialized for ground-level scent, not universally superior
  • Humans have fewer receptors but far more processing power
  • Trained tasters identify vintage, place, producer, and method from one sip
  • Humans can detect molecules like geosmin at parts per billion

we have way more processing power to make sense of what it is that we're smelling

Harold McGee · 43:30
#smell#dogs#wine#perception

Hot Take· 1

Hot Take07:30

Smelling is intimate: the thing becomes part of you

McGee frames smell as touch's intimate cousin: the receptor physically grabs onto the molecule, so for a split second the thing you smell is literally part of you. This explains why we instinctively hold our nose at bad smells, resisting letting something unpleasant get that close to our insides.

  • The nose receptor binds the incoming molecule, not just senses it near
  • Smell is like touch if the object turned into a volatile and entered you
  • Holding your nose is refusing to let something become part of you

that thing that you're smelling is part of you

Harold McGee · 08:00
#smell#biology#receptors

Explainer· 9

Explainer01:00

What a smell actually is: your brain's report on molecules

A smell is a perception generated in the brain but triggered by molecules small enough to escape objects and fly through the air into your nose. Receptors in the nose bind to the molecule and report to the brain, which interprets it against your whole database of experience. This makes smell the most direct contact we have with the physical world, since sight uses reflected light and hearing uses pressure waves.

  • Smell is a brain-generated perception stimulated by airborne molecules
  • Sight and hearing detect waves; smell detects the actual thing itself
  • The nose receptor binds the molecule, then reports to the brain
  • The brain interprets each signal against all other incoming information and past experience

smell is the most direct contact we have with the world because sight is a matter of reflected light waves and hearing is pressure waves…

Harold McGee · 01:30
#smell#perception#neuroscience#senses
Explainer04:00

Why sniffing works: short breaths let your brain re-notice a smell

Breathing technique changes perception. One long continuous inhale lets receptors fail to reset and the brain treats the smell as background wallpaper. Short repeated sniffs turn the sensation on and off, giving the brain fresh chances to identify it. This is why animals sniff in fractions-of-a-second bursts and why the smell of food is detected on the exhale through the nose, not in the mouth.

  • Constant inhaling makes the brain tune a smell out as background
  • Short repeated sniffs re-trigger attention and aid identification
  • Animal sniffs last only fractions of a second
  • Food aroma is detected retronasally as you exhale, then relocated to the mouth by the brain

if you keep breathing in the same thing constantly your brain will actually pay less attention to it because it kind of becomes part of…

Harold McGee · 05:30
#smell#sniffing#flavor#breathing
Explainer08:30

Smell is the oldest sense, older than sight

Chemical sensing predates eyesight because detecting molecules is far simpler than building an eye. Even bacteria have chemical-sensing systems that change their behavior based on what's around them. McGee cites E. coli that spin one way toward glucose and another way away from it, a simple if-this-then-that program that is smell's evolutionary ancestor.

  • Chemical senses are likely the earliest sense in living things
  • Eyes are complex structures; molecule detection is primitive and ancient
  • Bacteria detect molecules and change behavior accordingly
  • E. coli use a simple glucose-seeking if-then rule to steer their movement

chemical sensors are probably the earliest sense that the living things had, even before eyesight

Harold McGee · 09:00
#evolution#biology#bacteria#smell
Explainer11:00

Why smell beats taste: 400 receptors mixing combinatorially

Taste is limited to roughly a dozen sensations (sweet, sour, salty, bitter, savory, plus a few debated others). Smell uses around 400 different receptors that act combinatorially, letting us detect thousands upon thousands of molecules. That combinatorial power is what gives smell its incredibly fine-grained information about the world.

  • Taste covers only about a dozen distinct sensations
  • Smell uses ~400 receptors working in combination
  • Combinatorial mixing yields detection of thousands of distinct molecules
  • Smell gives the most particular information about the world of any sense

smell we have around 400 different receptors which can act combinatorially to detect many many different molecules

Harold McGee · 11:30
#smell#taste#receptors#neuroscience
Explainer20:00

Every smell is a bouquet, like a chord not a single note

We think of the smell of lemon or lavender as one unified thing, but each is actually a bouquet of many volatile molecules arriving together. The brain registers the overall combination and interprets it, more like hearing a chord than a single note. Strikingly, lavender (relaxing) and citrus (stimulating) share some of the same component notes yet produce opposite effects.

  • Smells are bouquets of many molecules, not single substances
  • The brain reads the whole combination like a musical chord
  • Lavender tends to relax; citrus tends to stimulate
  • The two share components despite opposite effects, still unexplained

it's more like a chord in music rather than particular notes, we're sensing the whole thing

Harold McGee · 20:30
#smell#aromatherapy#chemistry#perception
Explainer29:00

Your stool's smell is a report from your gut microbiome

Excrement carries the chemical signatures of the gut microbes producing it, so its smell signals what those microbes are up to. The closer it smells to a newborn baby's stool, the better; the more sulfurous and offensive it is, the more it indicates you are feeding bacteria that tend not to be good for you. Shifting diet can move you toward the healthier profile.

  • Gut microbes outnumber human cells and shape health broadly
  • Stool smell reflects the microbes' activity and outputs
  • Baby-like smell is a good sign; heavy sulfur is a bad one
  • Diet changes can shift the microbial balance and the smell

the closer that smell comes to the smell of newborn babies' poop the better, and the more sulfurous and offensive it is the more it…

Harold McGee · 30:30
#microbiome#gut-health#smell#diet
Explainer33:00

Why plants smell good: it's chemical warfare, not an invitation

Animal smells come from the breakdown of tissues, which is why we find them unpleasant; plant smells are actively synthesized larger molecules, and the bigger and more complex a molecule, the more likely we find it pleasant, since it signals creation rather than decay. Paradoxically, most pleasant plant smells exist to repel animals from eating the plant, not to attract them. Because plants can't run, herbs, spices, and flowers evolved as chemical defenses.

  • Animal smells are tissue-breakdown products, hence unpleasant
  • Plant smells are synthesized, larger, more complex molecules
  • Bigger, more complex molecules tend to smell more pleasant
  • Most plant aromas evolved to repel animals, not attract them

unlike animals plants are stuck in one place, they can't run away, so they have to do something to discourage animals from chomping on them

Harold McGee · 35:00
#plants#smell#evolution#chemistry
Explainer36:30

Why smells hit you emotionally: a direct line to the ancient brain

Smell wires much more directly to the brain's emotional centers than other senses, likely because the chemical senses are so primitive they predate good vision and hearing. McGee adds a second reason: vision runs constantly, but smell is episodic and easy to ignore, which makes it easier to anchor a single vivid experience in a smell than in a continuous stream of sight.

  • Smell routes more directly to emotional brain centers than other senses
  • The chemical senses are evolutionarily older than sight and hearing
  • Vision is continuous; smell is episodic and easily tuned out
  • Episodic smells anchor specific memories more powerfully

the sense of smell goes much more directly to the emotional centers of the brain than the other senses do

Harold McGee · 36:30
#smell#memory#emotion#neuroscience
Explainer47:00

The early Earth smelled of rotten eggs until oxygen arrived

Before photosynthesis flooded the atmosphere with oxygen, the world would have smelled overwhelmingly sulfurous, dominated by hydrogen sulfide and methane thiols. Hydrogen sulfide is the same molecule behind the smell of hard-cooked eggs, so magnified a hundredfold it becomes the reek of volcanoes and hot springs. Oxygen eventually oxidized those molecules away, transforming the planet's smell into something closer to what we know now.

  • Pre-oxygen Earth was dominated by sulfurous hydrogen sulfide and thiols
  • Hydrogen sulfide also gives hard-cooked eggs their smell
  • Magnified, it's the smell of volcanoes and hot springs
  • Photosynthetic oxygen oxidized those molecules and changed the world's smell

before there was an excess of oxygen in the atmosphere everything would have smelled sulfurous

Harold McGee · 47:00
#evolution#earth-history#smell#chemistry

Story· 3

Story13:00

McGee lost his sense of smell while writing the book

While writing about smell, McGee lost his own sense of it. Eating became purely functional: it satisfied hunger but delivered no pleasure, so cooking and restaurants lost their point. He notes that people who lose taste report the same emptiness, since the brain can no longer connect food smells to the mouth, making eating feel like sniffing perfume rather than a grounded experience.

  • McGee lost his smell mid-writing, an unsettling irony
  • Eating still filled hunger but gave zero satisfaction
  • Smell is the dominant component of food flavor
  • Losing taste feels similar: smells no longer feel located in the mouth

there was just no pleasure left in eating, you would satisfy the growling stomach but then that was it

Harold McGee · 14:00
#smell#anosmia#flavor#covid
Story27:00

Ambergris: the transcendent perfume from a sperm whale's gut

Animal materials are among the most valuable perfume ingredients, and ambergris is the strangest. It forms in the sperm whale's lower digestive tract, then washes up on beaches worldwide where people find it by chance. Despite its origin, it smells not fishy but flowery and transcendent. McGee notes ambergris features heavily in Moby Dick's account of the whaling industry.

  • Animal ingredients are prized and valuable in perfumery
  • Ambergris comes from the sperm whale's lower digestive tract
  • Most is found by chance, washed up on shores
  • It smells flowery and transcendent, not fishy

it's not fishy the way you would expect, it's flowery and just kind of transcendent smelling but it came from the lower digestive system of…

Harold McGee · 28:30
#perfume#ambergris#whales#smell
Story49:30

Pluck a tea leaf and watch it turn from grass to flowers

McGee grows tea bushes in his backyard and recommends it to anyone, since the plant is hardy and frost-tolerant. Freshly plucked leaves smell like green leaves, but rub them or let them sit and they transform to smelling like flowers. That shift is a defensive reaction: the damaged leaf ramps up molecules to repel predators and signals the rest of the plant to boost its own defenses, aromas we happen to find delicious.

  • Tea bushes are hardy and easy to grow, even through frost
  • Plucked or bruised leaves shift from grassy to floral in minutes
  • The aroma change is a defensive chemical response to damage
  • Damaged leaves signal the rest of the plant to raise its defenses

you pluck a few young leaves and smell them and they smell like green leaves, and you let them sit for a couple of hours…

Harold McGee · 49:30
#tea#plants#smell#gardening

Takeaway· 1

Takeaway21:00

Smells have no objective good or bad, only your history with them

What a smell means is largely built from personal and evolutionary history rather than any objective quality of the molecule. Rotting-meat revulsion and fresh-grass pleasure are evolutionary signals about food safety, while a lavender-on-the-pillow memory becomes a lifelong comfort association. Notably, toddlers are far more neutral to smells than adults, lacking automatic revulsion, for reasons still unclear.

  • No smell is objectively worse; interpretation supplies the meaning
  • Rot-aversion and fresh-food attraction are evolutionary safety signals
  • Personal memories attach strong emotion to specific smells
  • Toddlers show a neutral window with little automatic revulsion

it's not like one smell is worse objectively and one smell is better objectively, it's how we interpret those

Chris Williamson · 31:30
#smell#psychology#evolution#development